Challenge: The 100$ boat!

[DanishBagger]

Well, do you think it is possible?

Of course, one could stick a broom shaft on a raft made from old milk bottles, and a coat for a sail, but do you think that it is possible to make a "real" boat for 100$? One that maybe won't last for long, and might just be for simple sailing on a creek?

I am asking because I had a little talk with a member from this forum. My thoughts are "no way", but maybe, just maybe ..

If it is to be done, I am thinking, you cannot have metal oarlocks, so you would either need to cut them out, use a paddle, or make some sails.

Speaking of sails, maybe something made from tyvek? Polytarp? Any old tarp?

Shape? No idea, perhaps using some old ordinary house ply, scavenged, and for stringers, also some scavenged building material?

Or how about using cotton or the like for the hull, using "spreaders" to hold it taught against plywood frames?

Do you think it can be done, and/or are you up for the challenge?

Edit: Updated rules:

Any type of propulsion
Any length
100$ maximum ...
Any materials can be used
As few special tools as possible
The type of usage should be posted (fishing on a creek, use as a tender for a bigger boat, lake-use, diving platform or what have we.

What isn't allowed (of course we can't check up on eachother, so this is at your discretion): You can't make use of special connections you have because of your boatbuilding. So, no scavenging yourself for super marine plywood, epoxy or the like. Neither ask your fellow boatbuilder to give you half a boat as the scavenged part. (I know this doesn't sound "legal", holed as a sieve, that it is, but I think everyone will get it).

Also, I think we should have a time limit for the actual building. What is everybody thinking of, say, 40 hours? Too much?

[DanishBagger]

Heh, I might add that it is a shame that the dollar is as low as it, making it rather unfair for us overseas :-)

[hansp77]

If scavenging can be included, and time, then no matter what- i would say that it can be done. At least in a country like my own where people throw out so much good stuff. And in this regard, I am of the opinion that there are other countries that are just as bad if not worse.
Bergalia's example of building his latest Snafu for $700 is a great example of this.
I will copy his whole post here.

(idiot posts… page three)
Guillermo. You were kind enough to express an interest in the progress of my 'floating coffin'. The project is now complete and afloat (and not yet sunk). Yet another 'Snafu' (all my vessels except one have been a Snafu - it's been a lucky name - this is the seventh I've built, all around the 30 - 40 foot mark.)
Snafu seven was something of an experiment - a personal challenge to use only (apart from the fastenings) salvaged materials. Even the power plant - a small Volvo Penta 3-cylinder - was acquired as three boxes of bits (bought from the owner of a recently foundered yacht). Main motive power is by my own version of a sprit sail (the canvas from three military tents ($5 Australian from the local Vincent De Paul charity shop.) Much timber, as I told you came from village hall floor boards, other pieces from the local tip and demolition yards. Metal work salavaged from the same yard and reworked (machining, welding etc) by me.
The odd looking 'cuddy' (I'm using it for fishing and lobster creeling) has a windscreen salvaged from a defunct Morris Mini (including windscreen wipers). Also from the same Mini, the starter motor and dynamo.
In brief, excluding my time (and I'm cheap) total cost for this 35 foot vessel was $700 Australian dollars. Maybe not pretty beyond the eye of the owner - but built to last.
Anyway, just thought I'd let you see the end result before I sign off. (Postal Idiot leaving the ship/forum). Take care. Yours aye, Max (bergalia)

Now this is a pretty big boat, and a boat that is built to last.
Maybe some parameters would need to be set.
But like I said, given time, a wastefull society, and ingenuity, I think that $100 will build you that boat.

[jehardiman]

There are several "one-sheet" boat designs out there. There are even more that use two sheets, a few 2x4's, drywall screws, and (insert name of favorite adhesive/sealant here). All less than $100 material cost, of course you can spend a lot more to improve longevity.

[DanishBagger]

Cool, I guess I am proven wrong, then, lol :D

Okay, so here's my idea for a boat:

(damn, I need something to make a file I can post).

It would be rather slim, and with two pointy ends, sort of like a whaler.

The bottom would be flat.

The materials could either be ply or made from boards "staggered" edgewise.

It would be at least 260cm (8,5ft) or at the most 360 (11ft), depending on what could be scavenged. Width should be at max 90 cm at the railing, preferably narrower (for ease of rowing).

For gunwhales, seat/"spreaders" I would use whatever is left from the hull, making two or three crossbeams.

For rowlocks, I would cut out two pairs of half circular holes in the railing.

the mast would simply be some thick plank, cut to rough dimensions, short, same with a gaff.

The "gaff" should go past the mast (I believe it is called a lugrig?), and set up with string, wound many times.

The sail could be anything, again depending on what could be scavenged, and for reinforcements I would use gaffer's tape.

For a "keel" I would make board (no idea, what they're called) that sits on the side, fastened with strings again, but this time also with a string going under the boat and to the other side a bit further forward to make the board chatter less.

Any other ideas?

[DanishBagger]

Paramaters. Yikes!

Okay, here are some suggestions:

Easily propulsed, be it by oars, sculling oar, paddle or sails. This, both for ease, fun, and safety.

Size: "small" - not exactly sure of what size, but "small" because small usually equals simple, and a small one might be carried by one guy, or two larger kids.

Propulsion: well, whatever floats your boat ;)

parts should be able to be scavenged asd far as possible, and without having "special" connections.

Adhesion? Not a clue.

Also, it should be very simple, requiring as few tools as possible.

How are those parameters? Can we agree? Any other parameters that should be included? Some that should be excluded?

Edit: changed "little tools" to "few tools" ....

[DanishBagger]

Wow, this one is nice (maybe an idea?)

http://www.woodenwidget.com/

Hell, I want one of those, even though I don't need it :D

[hansp77]

I think one of the challenges would be that for a heavy reliance on scavenged materials, the design to a large degree will have to depend on what is available.
I sort of think that good timber is going to be easier to scavenge than good ply. this could vary though. Maybe we need to work out where a semidecent ply can be salvaged (other than the 'five finger discount' from building sites).
Building from timber makes the whole process a fair bit more complicated, and of course a lot heavier.

For the budget, for adhesion I think that probably something like a liquid nails will be used, and the joins really well oil painted and protected over. Unless of course something better can be scavenged. Someone in Shakej's thread mentioned approaching boatbuilders and asking for their empty drums of epoxy, where more than enough for a project this size could be scraped out of the bottom.
Screws could probably be salvaged, or cheap galvanised used.
I have heard of a wrecked boat that is the same model as my boat that rotted in a paddock somewhere (and yes I do want to find it). Everything on my boat (30ft V Stadt seahorse) was built with monel nails and screws. Pretty much everything I have pulled out of mine is perfect. A few hours digging at the grave of one of these old ladies would provide more than enough screws and nails.
Rigging, get some of the old stainless cable that has been replaced on a bigger yacht, and ropes, well maybe the same, or find some rockclimbers who will give/sell you their old ropes.

A lot of stainless can be salvaged out of dumped stuff. Kitchen sinks and fridges contain alot that can be cut out, reworked and welded into usable stuff.

then sails I guess. Bergalias old canvas tent solution may be good, other wise put the word out at sailmakers and boat clubs to try to get old and or damaged sails.

Sounds like fun.

[hansp77]

Wow, this one is nice (maybe an idea?)

http://www.woodenwidget.com/

Hell, I want one of those, even though I don't need it :D


You know I would like one of them too.
And I do need it,
to get out to my swing mooring.

at 25-30 pounds, the plans aren't even that expensive.

[gonzo]

As defending champion of the Junk Boat Competition of Lake Petenwell, Wisconsin, I have to say yes. The rules allow $25.00 to be spent and any kind of junk or garbage that is laying around can be added.

[jehardiman]

See this site

http://www.mcallen.lib.tx.us/staff/gm/dhboatp1.htm

[Wellydeckhand]

Err..... US$100 get u a new wooden river boat made out of bengkirai of Loa 2.5m in Indonesia. Why build if you can buy?

If this is a competition, then it would be US$100 to build the biggest, the most beautiful and design wise foxy boat afforable by the set limit.

With money as Gonzo say a portion only for junk yard stuff, free junk stuff not more than half of the boat.

Yep, I can see this competition would be slow and torturous as we go around begging:)

Nontheless who will set the rule? I gonna try.......... and surprise you all with a small metal boat for US$100?

WDH

[DanishBagger]

Hehe, welly. That would almost be cheating :D

But, yeah, someone should begin and set the standard, and welly, if you do that, remember that you cannot make use of your "special" connections.

The reason for this is that I was asked about this by a non-boatbuilder, and to be fairest for most, I think that is the way to go.

Can we all agree to adding this to the rules:

"The most beatiful" - although that is subjective, at least we won't have too many rafts?

I don't think that the "Half"-rule can work, what is "half of a boat", considering some of it has been scavenged?



Gonzo - are you suggesting we should lower the amount, to say 50$?

I'm not capable of agreeing to 25, as that can't buy me more than one or two rolls of gaffer's tape around here

[Wellydeckhand]

I think in western country you have better scapeyard and stuff left in people home able to be taken with permission as long as we look kind.

I am not turning you guys into bag lady and run around begging:) but a good view of town get you things you never noticed was thrown or discarded.

I mean you can start looking into houses that throw stuff after redecore or upgrade renovation............ plenty of stuff............ begging is the last straw babe.

WDH

P.S. some company give welding rods and grinding disc sample for free..... get the drift?:D

[hansp77]

I need to get a tender.
And, after the ordeal of purchasing my boat, restoring her, buying a mooring, surveying, and insuring, I have no money. Actually I have minus money. I spent all my money just on buying the boat!
So maybe I shall enter into this little game.

My boat will be powered by rowing, and will be winched up uder the jetty where my swing mooring is. Thus I have to design it, or finish it at least, so that it does not look too pretty otherwise someone will nick it. (or at least that will be my excuse ;) I am thinking here maybe some carefully painted staining to resemble rot? I don't know, it is going to be difficult to not want to make it look as good as possible.

I wonder if the rules will allow me to use my own stored offcuts and leftovers from our current restoration?
Probably not.



So for me, the hunting and gathering shall begin.
As my mid year holidays are about to begin, I shall call around the local councils and set a schedule of when and where "hard rubbish" pickups are hapening.
Ah, hard rubbish, the australian scavengers dream.
(Last year we found a brand new girls Giant mountainbike out with a pile of other bikes- the same model was still for sale in bike shops for $700, all that was wrong with it was that someone had unscrewed the little brake adjuster and tried to screw it back in off its thread)
I have one big 74 transit van that I can fit just about anything in- and even better, our house we rent has a massive empty pool in a shed where I can store all of my salvaged goods, as well as more than enough room to build the boat.

Can we use plans for this or do we have to make the plans oursleves?
I have the original plans for my boat which include plans for a tender.
Maybe at least I will start from here.
But this plan is for one made out of ply, and I am thinking of trying to use timber instead...

Can anyone point me to some free plans for a tender built out of timber?

This is going to be fun.
(and maybe just a little dangerous)

Ladies and gentlemen,
let the games begin.

[DanishBagger]

I think there is nothing wrong in using plans - if you already have them. I mean, if we imagine that you didn't have any as it is, most would see if they could find a good free one.

Yeah, the dangerous part is part of the fun :)

Welly, our "hard" scrap aren't really that good. Here most "good stuff" are driving to scrapping place, and we are not allowed to scavenge at those places. So I have to find some containers and so on - before - they are driven away. This might take a while.

[Wellydeckhand]

Hold your horses hans, I think this project have great insight, I am humble back into think what is essential within a boat you need to sail in term of set minium budget wise.

BUT......... we need to know the extent of this project before we jump into the river......... we might get alots of gear and stuff for free but would that be use on the boat?

This boat project..... will it be aim to built a boat with only oars, pedal power or even to sail? If sail....... one mono sail or multiple sail config? Under bone with no restriction as long as you use only US$100 for whole boat?

Must it be a mono hull or cat and tri can be consider? How durable the construction need to be?

I could built a mini pocket (batteryrotor) pedal poweredsailor for what I know:) it would be unfair without any restriction.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Andre , without a plan Hans will build an aircraft carrier for before you know:D:D:D.( see picture)

Yes, scape in here are hard as almost everything are picked and recycled by garbage man..... But I see a lot of cars and truck rust to dust with no owner and miles away from civilisation. That would be a start as small boat need not use big mild steel plate. Can u imagine the roof , engine cover and door turning into boat plate? rent a roller and build......... to be fair.


WDH

[DanishBagger]

I guess you can use what you can get for free, but if it's through "specialty" contacts, it should be a no-no. Think of someone that has no connections, know no boatbuilders or craftsmen, and go from there.

Also, you talked about welding and so forth - to me that is a little cheating. It is using special tools, and knowledge (how to weld).

Andre

[DanishBagger]

Oh, I forgot, it should be "simple", but having multiple sails in order for the boat to balance and not tipping too much seems fine.

[Wellydeckhand]

Ok, I would rent someone welding torch and use someone else gas( seem silly because I am producing it) to be fair...... agreed. But remember, US$100 is a lot of money just for renting equipment and buying old stuff........ beware good exchange rate:D

So....... what is the max LOA? Need to know..... is speed important in the design? At what speed min.? The boat is for what type of uses? extreme usage or circle in the pond?

[DanishBagger]

Ok, I would rent someone welding torch and use someone else gas( seem silly because I am producing it) to be fair...... agreed. But remember, US$100 is a lot of money just for renting equipment and buying old stuff........ beware good exchange rate:D

So....... what is the max LOA? Need to know..... is speed important in the design? At what speed min.? The boat is for what type of uses? extreme usage or circle in the pond?

I don't think we should have a max loa, but maybe we should have a maximum building time (I mean, when not scavenging, but actual work).

The usage should just be stated, as that would depend on where you live, and what you can get of materials.

Just like Hans is going to build one to use as a tender, someone might build something for a bit of fishing in a pond, another might build a rowing-thingy for the dutch canals, and yet another might build a board for body surfing (okay, that wouldn't be a boat, but you get my drift).

I have to get building on my "real" boat, so I'll talk to you guys later, and update the rules in the first post. :cool:

See ya,

Andre

[hansp77]

You know Welly,
so far, I think you might just win this competition.
With the exchange rate, you could probably just pay someone to win it for you.:D

I like your idea for salvaged steel from cars.
I am sort of regretting the big old ford car bonnet that I thru out. It was really big, and thick, and no rust (I found it under our house).
I may just think about that option too.
I do like the idea of working with metal, cut it, grind it, bend it and weld it, especially for a ugly little tender like I need.

Could we do the prepping and painting of it on the cheap though, does it need to be sandblasted, and what about paint?

[Wellydeckhand]

You can use a handheld grinder with a brush attachment exchange...... this brush can eat away the rust part......... Before they invent the machine they have rust brushes ( hard work).

As for the Acetylene gas, in Asia they have a chinese kit that use carbide and crude C2H2 will be produce........ meaning you just buy the carbide rock and Oxygen supply. Here 2nd hand torch would cost you, US$20 ( plus meter but need begging).

The grind disc you just ask from different manufacturer or distributor...... they give out freebees to new brand believer.:)

The rods come in sample package with spec. for thickness and different application. I know to give these samples 4-5 to a same person because he said he will past it to his welder to test.......... I doubt it but still gave him the rods:)

For small craft....... good simple and ugly try corrosion spray for car mobil anti-rust TAR spray or in this part of the world buy a gallon of spare corrosion paint 2 part from vessel coming in from other countries( they carry paint to emergency maintaince )......... beg for cheaper price.

For me I prefer some Chemical Industrial anti-rust and paint....... does a fine job for personal need and I like it.

The plan you can get free on a few website.............

If you have the time, you can put in an extra pedal power from an old bicycle....... and a small sail. The boat would be trailable..........

WDH

[DanishBagger]

Still, Welly, you're using special tools if you're going that way around. I think it's cheating a bit.

On the other hand, I wouldn't mind seeing what you could come up with.

[DanishBagger]

I have updated the opening post with the rules so far, anything I forgot?

[Wellydeckhand]

Andre:),

I would try wooden boat as wood is abondance in my are........ picking a right tree would be a problem....... Indonesian like hard wood. Some important part we use the big roots for dense and beautiful pattern........ then tool will be traditional...... I have already the tool.......:)

I would try a small SAMPAN for fun....................................

The second one would be on scape metal boat...... but then that is another project...........:)

Why buy more tools if you have a avaliable tool aready in hand? I dont think the US$100 would be included in tool purchase but only the material for the boat yes?!:D

See the rough drawing from FREE Sampan plan:

http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/AA_Eric/alone_contents.html
http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/junk/sampan.html
http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/junks.html dirt cheap plan for 35ft

I mean you have a free plan and a junk website with all the answer........ cheap option but fun nontheless......................:)

[Wellydeckhand]

Errr........ you killing me Andre babe.....:( 40 HRS? to beg , log on forum, run a business, do land clearing........... I would think a month would be nice and everybody happy finding left over..........

Scout honor, I dont do special pulling of connection but I wont go to the nearest police station and beg...... you gonna trust me ok!:D:D:D

What I do is the project to test myself, winning is second problem........ If I do build that sampan, it will be US$100 blood money and nice job to get it as permanant as possible so no bottol and aluminium cans of drink ok:)

I choose wood because I am not a good carpenter and there is little of welding........ just to be fair.

Please......... 40 hrs would push me leg to early retirement.......

WDH

[DanishBagger]

Errr........ you killing me Andre babe.....:( 40 HRS? to beg , log on forum, run a business, do land clearing........... I would think a month would be nice and everybody happy finding left over..........

Scout honor, I dont do special pulling of connection but I wont go to the nearest police station and beg...... you gonna trust me ok!:D:D:D

What I do is the project to test myself, winning is second problem........ If I do build that sampan, it will be US$100 blood money and nice job to get it as permanant as possible so no bottol and aluminium cans of drink ok:)

I choose wood because I am not a good carpenter and there is little of welding........ just to be fair.

Please......... 40 hrs would push me leg to early retirement.......

WDH

hehe, Welly - I meant "40 hours" as in "working 5 hours one day, 2 another" and so forth. Not fourty hours in a row :) You can spend two months or more if you like, but just forty hours in that timespan. I'm not sure that 40 manhours is enough or too much.

Also, it doesn't include the time spent looking for materials to scavenge.

About the tools: The 100$ wouldn't include tools as you say. But in the same mind, I think it is important to only use "normal" (hand?) tools as that would be what an utter newbie would have at his or her disposal.

[hansp77]

hehe, Welly - I meant "40 hours" as in "working 5 hours one day, 2 another" and so forth. Not fourty hours in a row :)

Haha.
Forty hours in a row...:eek:
that sounds like one of my essays.:o

Ok, it is all sounding pretty good.
The tools are a bit of a grey area,
it would be hard to not use some special tool that you happen to have available.
Not much of a problem for me, as I have very few tools.

Andre, I do hope by hand tools you mean hand POWER tools!

Anyway, one more week and I shall try to begin.
Don't know what plans I shall follow yet, I think I will see what stuff I can find.

[Wellydeckhand]

See, everybody is suspicious about the tools area.......:D:D:D

For tools , I think generic avaliable tools that standard worker would have....... from handsaw for wood 2 type metal saw 1 type, 2 hammer, Mallet, bench screw and stuff............ electric equipment for handheld only no fancy overpower tools..............

I think we gonna state that the project is US$100 build from scatch......... not partly continue stuff.....:)

What else........................ do we need to clarify? before beginnig the project?

Er.......... Are we the ONLY three person interested? What a pity..........:)

Just got news that a bloke a friend of my friend wanna redo his home damage wooden flooring into granite flooring........ damage report 30 % fungus and moistuerised plank but left 70% which half only can be use........... small pieces............(I can post damage report picutre on flooring before I go and tear it just to be fair):D:D:D



WDH

[DanishBagger]

Just before I go to bed (it's 1.30 am, I have just come home): Ordinary hand tools, powered or not is ok. But again, just don't use ten different power tools, because then we are back at "would people ordinarily have that many powertools?"

Goodnight

[Wellydeckhand]

Errr........ 41 km from my house is a big bamboo growth can be found....... it is from Toraja version replant by Toraja migrant....... Big huge green pole..... 6-8 inch in diameter and 1-2 inch wall........ I will take picture of the glen as I was given 4 cut of the trunk as sample........ due to the thread by bamboo usage.

So I think it is also time to test how bamboo will add fexiblity to the Sampan design........ good in junk sail .....:)

WDH

[Wellydeckhand]

Ok I have some picture of the bamboo cut into sizable length..... with wall thickness 1-1.5 inch....... some rare old one at the base of the root can be as thick as 2-2.5 inch..... incredible plant....

Oh yes one of the picture with welding torches and meter...... and other stuff that is on the table cost me US$100 but not for the competition usage..... just an example what u can get for second hand equipment at my place.


WDH

[Milan]

How about curragh? Ancient Irish boat type made from light wooden frame and covered with few layers of rough fabrics soaked with tar.

[Wellydeckhand]

That would be a nice boat........... maybe Hans77 like it:) I prefer something with a bit of sail...

Milan are you joining us in this cheap quest?:D

WDH

[hansp77]

That would be a nice boat........... maybe Hans77 like it:) I prefer something with a bit of sail...

Milan are you joining us in this cheap quest?:D

WDH
Thanks Milan, and Welly,

I do like it!
I like it a lot.
the timber would be no problem to scrounge,
the fabric- well what sort would do?
I know where I can get a ton of free upholstery fabric, nice and thick and tough enough to build furniture out of.
would that do?
Would I want natural or artificial fabric? I am thinking artificial for the no rot factor.

That would leave me with money to spend on a big bucket of tar.
I wonder if there is something better (and cheaper) that could be used for tar? Or can I make tar???


Hey Milan,
I am going to do a search now,
but do you have any links for that boat, or any idea where to get a plan ?(free hopefully).

Hans.

[Milan]

...I prefer something with a bit of sail...

No problem, many of them have sails. There are many variations of curraghs. In the early Middle Ages there were many big sailing curraghs for ocean voyaging. Later, wood prevailed for bigger size boats but smaller currags continued to be build to this day. They come in different shapes and sizes, from the smallest that are completely circular in form in sheltered waters to the quite seaworthy surfboats for 4 or more rowers. Tim Severin, well known British adventurism sailed one across North Atlantic. (That's boat with two square sails).

...Milan are you joining us in this cheap quest?

NIce quest, I would like to join but I don't have a time at the moment. (Summer finally arrived in this part of the world, I'm off, sailing in the weekends).:)

[Milan]

...the fabric- well what sort would do?


They are usually built from ordinary canvas, any similar fabric will do. Rot is not really a problem because everything is soaked in tar and boats are taken out of the water when not used. Eventual damages are patched with fabric and tar, but these boats are quite resilient to damage, as they are quite elastic.

Unfortunately, I don't have any building plans for curraghs, these boats are built by eye. If you take a good look at the photographs, and find some line plans for Norwegian prams you will have enough informations.

I personally never built or sailed curraghs but I saw big part of the building process couple of years ago in Amsterdam of all places. That was during international sailing ships meeting, Irish team just built one right there on the spot in two or three days. Their stand was one of the best, aside from boat builders and sail makers in action, there was nice Irish live music and Guinness of course…so, some boat details got a bit blurred for me.:)

...can I make tar???

Tar was traditionally made from pine tree stumps, left over after the logging. Stumps were collected and heated over the fire for hours in some sort of the kettle. (closed to prevent contact with oxygen as wood must not burn). Tar would slowly drop on the bottom. All together, long, laborious, messy process. You can do it but I wouldn't border for a boat, just by a bucket.

[hansp77]

Thanks Milan,
that sort of building by sight is kind of what I was thinking of (and looking forward to).
From some of the photos you posted that certainly looks like how they have been done.

I am concieving of some sort of Bergalia-esque level of planning- ie not much more than chalk lines drawn on the floor with a rough idea of the shape and size I want, and then just start going for it, let my materials dictate a fare bit...

This could be really funny.

won't be winning the beauty contest.

As far as I can tell so far,
my only costs should be the tar, and some glue and screws.
I guess I should paint the wood too, as I most probably will not be using oak like they recomend. So maybe some scrounged oil paint as well.
$100 US? I might just make it.
Hans.

[Wellydeckhand]

Good thing about wood is you can build a metal free boat by using wood nail....... its the carpentary that do the job......

In Indonesia they put tree bark and gum in between plank to make it water proof...... these gum is cold proof not hot proof....... meaning will melt with a bon fire nearby...... beware:)

hans77 if you can find bamboo try using it......... ancient raft are made of that stuff....... river type of course:D

WDH

[hansp77]

Welly,
while the marina might just tolerate me winching a tar and cloth boat up under the jetty, they will probably draw the line at me tying up an ancient indonesion bamboo river raft.:p
Besides, not much bamboo grows down here in melbourne. At least not much of any decent thickness, and even this I would probably have to "borrow" out of someones garden.:mad:

[Wellydeckhand]

Tell you a secret.......... buy cheap nice bamboo from TORAJA sulawesi (Celebis) island............. next time you need nice bamboo finished deck........ BEAUTIFUL

[lewisboats]

This one was about $50 with the paddles.

[hansp77]

Well I have got some wood.
I don't know what sort it is,
but I am pretty sure it is good.
I got it for free asking somone if they had seen any demolition sites for wood,
they said, "here take this"

It looks like red cedar, but is more of a light yellow/orange.
It has a lovey fine long grain and is very light but still strong.
It smells sort of like a sauna, but a little different:confused:

It is only 12mm x 20mm, and 1.8m long- and a big bundle.

I figure I can use it for the fine ribs and stuff, and then bend and laminate peices together into thicker beams. I am going to show it to someone who will be able to tell me what it is.

Just up the road on my street there is a big dumpster that I checked out late tonight- that has one big sheet of 9mm ply on top, a bit muddy (completly dried now) but still aparantly ok after obviously being wet-
and then a lot of timber framing underneath.
Tommorow I will grab the ply and have a little dig.
After raving about how great and easy it is to find "hard rubbish" I cannot seem to find any subburbs that are doing it right now.



Tar is proving very hard to find too.
apparantly most workplaces aren't allowed to use tar anymore because of workplace health and safety laws.
I have found a variety of new waterbased tar and latex products, but I think they will be out of my price range, even if they are suitable.
I will have to try to find companies that build roads and see if they will throw me a sack or two of bitumen.


I am seriously considering offering half a case of beer to the next council team that I see working on a road for a couple of buckets of tar.

Anyone in Australia have suggestion of where to get tar from???

Fabric is sorted too, hopfully.
The guy who has the upholstery has had to dump it at his parents because he has no room for it, thus if I go round there and have a look depending on what I take it will be very cheap or free.
There very well may be some canvas like stuff too.
I am wondering though if some sort of artificial fabric, that had a very strong quality like canvass, might be better?

What ya think?

Anyway,
I think I will definately have to buy some glue.
On my boat for a fair few non vital things we used a newish cheap 'marine' glue that you get from hardware stores. It is clear and yellow like honey and uses water (in the wood or added to dampen the wood) as the catalyst- which makes it foam to fill any gaps.
It is realy quite strong.

I am thinking of using this, about $17 Aus, and then a big bag of galvanised wood screws. Then the tar. The rest should be cheap or free.

Then of course the hours.

I am thinking of doing some sort of double ender with curved raised stern and bow- something like the boat in the very back of the picture.

[hansp77]

Finding some info for currachs: http://www.mmara.com/map.html
CONSTRUCTION
The double gunwhales are constructed as with all currachs using the inverted method, starting from the top down, 35 ribs are wedged in the lower (or false gunwhale) and clenched to 13 laths with copper nails. The hull is then covered with 18oz cotton duck canvas and coated with coal tar.

and a smaller one:

An interesting feature of this currach is the way the ribs and laths are held together, rather than using copper nails, the entire basket is bound with a rope fibre, nowadays nylon string or similar. The ribs are of unbarked hazel, whereas laths are sawn and as they run into the bow they are bound in a clump, thus the currach retains its distinctive roundness from stem to stern. The framework is covered with 2 layers of calico and coated with coal tar.


I like the idea of using nylon string.
I am not too sure about the instructions for the laths and false gunwhales.:confused:

[fiberglass jack]

when i went to high school in Ireland we build a couple of curragh for shop class dam sturdy little vessel the irish fishermen used them on the north atlantic up to the 1930's locals from the arran islands would tow cattle with them to shore i feel safer in on than a fiberglass dingie any day and dont for get there bigger cousins the galway hookers they date back to the 1600's and are still used to this day

[fiberglass jack]

heres a couple photos off the hookers they are hand build with wood found locally they use rock for ballast with out a plan i have to say ,all they do is dig 2 holes in the beech one for the front and one for the rear and then drop a timber for the keel all done bu eye the size of the boat depends on what size of timber is around

[gonzo]

The question was about spending no more than $100.00

[Wellydeckhand]

The tar can be salvage at one of the A.M.P. site for road repair or making......:)

Just ask nicely....... but you need to cook it later yourself......:D

WDH

[hansp77]

The dumpster with the ply prooved rather pathetic in the daylight.
Lots of ply, but the dried mud was actually dried cement! Yuck.

And then a lot of pine.

So this arfternoon in a freinds car with roof racks we hunted round one of the really upmarket suburbs. 10 minutes in we found a big mansion that was getting a some major renovations. And a big pile of wood.
I asked one of the tradees if I could grab a bit- and no problem.

Mainly it was all really big long skirting boards, (and one massive beam of what I think is red cedar). It is hard wood, but is really quite nice- good quality- not too heavy. Again, soon I will try to get it and the other wood identified. (I could have taken a lot more than I did- there was easily enough to make a very big boat.)
Don't know what I will do with most of it but-
The pick of the lot was a big 4+meter long perfectly curved skirting board. Maybe 25mm thick, 250mm high and 4+meters long.
Of the twenty five mmm thick, this is split into two boards, 12mm each.
It is a perfect curve to make some gunwhales.

There is a number of options to split it down the middle or lengthwise and glue/screw together. then fit a transom peice.


(now please correct me if I am wrong, but the ribs run from port to starboard, and the laths from bow to stern??)

I think that thin beatifull light wood I have got will laminate and bend nicely for the laths (if they are bow to stern).

Then I need to find something for the ribs. It has got to be able to do a full half circle bend. I am even thinking of bamboo, either bundles of thin peices tied and bent together, or laminates of split bamboo.

???


The next time I drive past some roadworkers who are laying bitumen I am going to offer them a six pack or two for a few bucket loads.

[fiberglass jack]

you can build a hooker for less than 100 if you have skill of a boatwright

[DanishBagger]

erm, yes, even the rudder fitting would be much more expensive than 100$.

Although they are nice boats, it's really not a "100$-boat", even if one is a shipwright.

[fiberglass jack]

for the rudder fittings they use to use iron which they would bend and shape u can find lots in a srap yard but your right not really a 100 buck boat

[Ari]

If the location is Malaysia and the quote is in USD( 1USD = 3.6 RM) then it should be no problem to build a wooden 'flat bottom' meranti plank( 1 inch thickness) sampan for the river and lakes with that amount of money, 16 to 18 feet long and 3 to 4 feet beam with 12 to 18 inches from floorboard to bream. Honda 4 or 5 horses engine with long tail propeller will cost RM1500.00 brand new. If 'owner build' than for the same amount of money a meranti plank ( 1 inch thickness) sampan boat with long keel(Leban wood), 18-20 feet long with 4 feet beam and the frame made of Leban wood( grows in bushes and can get it free, cut it on your own). Some owner/builder cut the big Leban tree, make some plank, keel and frame out of the whole tree.The big enough branch will make a good 'V' shape frame for the bow. The cost is the same eventhough the wood is free.(extra labour cost).

[DanishBagger]

I am seriously thinking of using painted cloth and get some non-marine plywood for the sides. It seems that that might be the cheapest route.

[hansp77]

Andre,
do you mean normal paint, as in oil based enamel?
and do you mean one of those folding type boats?

[DanishBagger]

Hehe, yes to both of them.

It propably won't last long, but being in europe is making it rather tough building anything for 100$.

I tried looking at a dumpster on a building site, and asked one of the workers if I could take some of the stuff they had tossed out. He told me that they have a policy against that. Splendid :(

[hansp77]

I tried looking at a dumpster on a building site, and asked one of the workers if I could take some of the stuff they had tossed out. He told me that they have a policy against that. Splendid :(

Try and try again,
I don't know how harsh your laws are, but you will be sure to find a builder somwhere that just can't stand them, and would let you take from his dumpster just to thumb his nose at authority. Or you will find one that simply can't stand to see good stuff go to waste.
And if that doesn't work,
then simply use the cover of darkness...

The laws here are getting more like that.
While it has always been 'technically' ilegal to collect peoples hard rubbish, the authorities seem to have let it be.
Now suburbs are starting to get rid of times when everyone puts their stuff out to a system where you call the council and they will come and pick your stuff up.


Serioulsy, I would try the more suburban and less professional looking building outfits. If you ask politely, and say something about a shame for good wood to go to waste, it can't hurt.

"I don't suppose you might let me lighten the load of that dumpster?"

discretion is the key, and approaching the right guy. Who the right guy (or girl) is- well that is the question.

Where I just got my last load of wood from, I asked one of the young apprentices. He told me I could take the lot. As I was digging through it and picking out the bits I wanted the boss came back and asked me what was going on, said he had already given it away, but it was ok if I just took a little.

Either way, that sort of folding boat would be fine. If you have a use for it. I was considering one of them myself. Easy to just fold up and throw in the back of my van.

But I am constantly considering lots of things, like building a solid timber boat, or finding ply and building the tender that came with the plans for my boat.:confused:

Hans.

[DanishBagger]

Thanks, I will try again. :)

I don't _really_ have a use for such a boat - the boat I'm building is pretty small as it is, hence no use for a dinghy, but I reckon that if it folds I can have it in my flat, plus, if I can get a swinging mooring for my "real" boat, then that would be cool to have. However, the mere thought of a folding dinghy is cool. Heck, you could even take the bus with one! :-)

[fiberglass jack]

i often grab stuff for conscution sites just talk to the right guy, sometimes you have to grease his hand some of these guys only make 10 dollars an hour so a couple of bucks can go a long way. I often get a phone call from some of them letting me know what there thrown out

[Wellydeckhand]

Tell them you goin to make a big kennel for a bunch of good doggie........ dont mention building a US$100 boat:rolleyes:

They are afraid that if anything happen they are the supplier of bad old stuff for the project.............;)

If they hear you are building a kennel then it will be a pet lover act and they are more welcome to that notion ....... white lies are ok:cool: :P

WDH

[DanishBagger]

Oh, Our construction workers make much more than that. Even if we do pay a premium of taxes, they get (in danish kroner) between 180 and 350/hour which is the equivalent to between 30 and almost 60 dollars/hour.

I guess I have to talk to as many guys as possible, though. Getting "connected", so to speak.

[DanishBagger]

Haha, Welly, what a splendid idea! :D

[Wellydeckhand]

Here some more of the sampan plan...................:):):)

WDH

[lewisboats]

This one comes in under $100 too. There are many designs that will do this if you don't use marine ply, more than a bit of epoxy or Bronze fasteners. I could knock out any # of simple boats that would fall into this catagory....just depends on what you are looking for. Sails, spars, rigging and motors are the expensive stuff.

Steve

PS: this is a motorboat called PoorBoy...for obvious reasons.

[lewisboats]

Here's an example...This would be a nice day sailer or rower (it would tool along nicely with a trolling motor too) for one heavy or two light people. The hull comes out of 1.5 sheets of 1/4" (6mm) and 2 sheets of 3/8"(9mm {heavy}) or 1/4" {light} and a few pieces of 1x for chine logs, wales and seats. DWL is at 360 lbs with a hull wt of 70-110 lbs depending on materials.

boat is:
LOA: 11.2 ft
Beam: 3.825 ft (46")
Draft: 3.9"

[Raggi_Thor]

I think this depends on where you live, it's an interesting question :-)

In Norway this is what you can do:

Simple flat bottom or v bottom rowing boat, LOA 3.5 to 4 meters,
total area 6 square meters.

6m2 of 12mm pine or spruce tong and grove: 300NOK or 50 USD
25m of knot free pine, 2x1 (50x25mm) : 120 NOK or 20 USD
1 bottle of polyurethane glue: 60 NOK or 10 USD
Galvanized spikes: 30 NOK or 5 USD
1 litre of high quality paint: 90 NOK or 15 USD
You can get good paint for one third of this if you buy paint have been mixed and returned because it was the wrong color.

All you need of tools is a hammer and a hand saw.
Make two frames and chine stringers of the 2 by 1,
cross plank the bottom with glued planks fastened with galvanised spikes.
The top sides can be planked longitudinally.

Oarlocks can of course be made of wood, and will cost 10 to 20 USD to buy.
See pictures.
Oarlocks in black plastic costs 30NOK or 5USD per pair + 2USD for the fasteners.
Chromed metal (brass?) costs 90NOK or 15USD per pair + 8USD for the fasteners.

[lewisboats]

So would this...Same specs different style

[Raggi_Thor]

I think your boat also can be built of simple tong and groove pine if plywood is unavailable.

[Wellydeckhand]

Here a cluster of nobody bamboo I have found........

A bamboo sampan style boat and what the yellow stuff I found....... sort of insulator...... can be of any use in boat building?:)

WDH

[Wellydeckhand]

http://www.johnsboatstuff.com/downloads/nestor8.zip

Freedownload on nestor8 boat plan

[DanishBagger]

http://www.johnsboatstuff.com/downloads/nestor8.zip

Freedownload on nestor8 boat plan

Hehe, the irony.

The files are in .dwg, thus meaning you need a design programme to open them. :confused:

[Wellydeckhand]

You can find the .dwg in the directory of this forum on free download......

Or you want me to send you a new disc on CAD2006?

WDH

[DanishBagger]

Indeed, Welly - nice thing, offering a free download, yet only people that have paid for a pro programme can open them. Makes it much easier to spend the money on proper paper plans. Heck, they could even be full-size.

Edit: Ah, I see what you mean now. No thanks, I don't want anything send to me. I was merely pointing out hte irony (as I have stated above).

They should have been made as a PDF instead, otherwise amateurs won't actually be building it. And why would pros need those plans, except to take a look at what else is offered?

[Wellydeckhand]

Maybe this training boat might fit the project bill................:) scape trainner

WDH

[DanishBagger]

Maybe this training boat might fit the project bill................:) scape trainner

WDH

Hehe, well, I like the sailplan and the hull. But those leeboards? It's a mish mash of styles (Hope I'm not offending someone too much). It's dutch, with a bit of Olde english style, and a tad of american sandbagger, with a complexity (topsail) of a herresshoff.

Maybe I'm a bit too harsh, but it seems that the boat would only be good for someone that would either like the challenge of that thing, or making it as a sorts of prototype for a bigger one, with the same complexity.

(edit: I just realised that the drawing of the sailboat says it is to be used for sailtraining for a rescue vessel. Now I understand why such a small boat is that complex!)

However, the drift boat is great. I really like drift boats - I wish we had rivers in this country! Put some flotation tanks in it, and go white water rafting :D

[E Hanson]

DanishBagger,

I don't want to Hijack this thread, but as a quick aside, here are a couple of free programs the read, write, and edit DWG.

http://www.a9tech.com/
http://www.progecad.com/

Eric

[alexlebrit]

Out of interest did this thread die? Or are people all beavering away building?

[westlawn5554X]

On summer vacation would be the truth.

[Redsky]

100 dollar boat ehh.. any limit on materal and dimensions?...style?

[westlawn5554X]

Nop, from the previous post I have read it seem anything goes, including begging.

Student

[Raggi_Thor]

I think it's not interesting if you beg, find, or use materials you allready have.
Then you could build a boat for free!
In Norway, a small pram of traditional wood and galvanised fastenings can be built for 100USD, but it would be far better to spend 300 :-)

[ancient kayaker]

Everybody has their own idea about what the rules should be but I agree with R_thor, the cost should be for bought materials at regular prices or no fair. Maybe minor scrap allowed. I believe a fair challenge includes doing the design oneself. While it is better to use proper materials and safer to use an established design we are having fun here.

Being of the paddling fraternity, for my first homebuilt boat I set out to design and build an attractive canoe as cheap and light as possible. I used one standard (4 x 8 feet) sheet of 3mm ply sold in Canada as "door skin" and an unplaned 16 foot plank of red cedar, 4 feet of hardwood dowelling for thwarts, a few zinc plated screws and construction grade "waterproof" glue, and finished it with acrylic latex paint.

The boat is 12.5 foot long, pretty and less than 20 lb in weight all up. As first built it was unstable as hell; design problem - I used some free SW to predict the stability and either it lied or I did not know how to interpret the results. I guess less than 1.5 foot beam at the waterline was a bit narrow.

The great thing about a wooden boat is you can change things. I ripped off the vee bottom, forced out the sides until all the rocker disappeared to increase the waterline beam and put in a flat bottom. Got 1.5 foot beam at the waterline: better but no cigar, so I then cut 1.5 foot from one end and put in a transom to increase the draft and lower the CoG. it can at least be paddled now, tracks well and is fast through the water but still twitchy.

Initial cost was less than cdn$50, time about 40 hours not counting subsequent changes, power tools used included jig and circular saws, drill, belt sander, router and power plane (I did not really need both of the last two). Current plans for the further tormenting of this piece of wood include installing short decks so I can remove the thwarts, and cutting it in half to make it into a sectional before I dispose of it. Local laws prohibit having a ceremonial beerfest around a bonfire which is a pity. I had fun.

Currently I am writing my own damned design SW and actually intend to build another single sheeter before progressing to more serious boats. Some people never learn. Cheap boats may not win races or last forever, but it is possible to achieve a respectable result that will last for a few years, I think.

[Ari]

. Some people never learn. Cheap boats may not win races or last forever, but it is possible to achieve a respectable result that will last for a few years, I think.
Congratulation. You have done it..! Some enjoy the construction,:) some others enjoy the boat it self..some enjoy the outing/journey..if you had enjoy all..thats is near perfect..!:)

[alexlebrit]

I don't mind the idea od people sourcing scrap materials at all, after all it's good recycling, but I figure of they beg boat-specific items (powerplants, sails etc) then there should be some accounting for market value. But to be handed a pile of scrap timber and to be able to see the boat in it to me is excellent, even better than buying the right stuff.

[Toot]

I don't mind the idea od people sourcing scrap materials at all, after all it's good recycling, but I figure of they beg boat-specific items (powerplants, sails etc) then there should be some accounting for market value. But to be handed a pile of scrap timber and to be able to see the boat in it to me is excellent, even better than buying the right stuff.

That's a very good, common sense, middle ground.

[ancient kayaker]

This thread is kind of quiet! Is anyone building out there?

Just to bring you folk up to date on my own activities, I have built another low cost canoe. Like my first attempt this was made from a single ply sheet $11, a short plank of cedar $7, a tube of construction grade adhesive $8, a few brass screws $5 and paint costs were about $8 totalling less than cdn$40 say US$35.

This one is short enough to fit inside my minivan 9.3 ft or 2.8m. Despite its small size it looks good & paddles well. It is stable enough to sit upright but rather tippy so I am replacing the bottom to increase the beam 10%. As far as an appreciation of design issues is concerned, I am getting there.

Interesting points: I omitted the thwart usually needed on undecked boats, the gunnels are made from three laminations, light but still stiff enough to support my entire weight. The gunnels extend beyond the transom and attach to a transverse stiffener behind the transom, and the breatshook is small. As a result the interior is uncluttered so I can stack one boat inside another if I make another one. At 22 lb/10kg each I should be able to cartop several like this, on the theory that several one person canoes is more fun than a single big one for a family.

Construction was really simple, 16 hours excluding painting. Once I have got this obsession with single sheet boats out of my mind I can get on with something a bit bigger using marine ply, but I will always have a place in my heart for the el cheapo boat.

[Raggi_Thor]

That's great!
Any pictures?

[hansp77]

Ancient Kayaker,
myslef, I bowed out and bought an old tinny for $180 (US$135)

My $100 boat was to be tender to winch up under a jetty.

It will annoy me if someone steals this tinny, but it would have annoyed me A LOT MORE if someone stole the tender that I had built myself AND spent money on
When I finish working on my big boat, and have some time to burn (will this ever happen ever again???) I may take up the challenge again.

I have wanted to build a kayak or open canoe to take down to Tasmania and with freinds to explore and camp upon Lake St Clair (and maybe some other lakes)- a very beautifull place.

early artists impression
http://images.statelibrary.tas.gov.au/tasimg/may1999/normal/AUTAS001125644401.jpg
http://www.milamba.com/australia/States/tas/tas04.jpg

Sorry for ramble...
Hans.

[ancient kayaker]

As requested here are photos of my first efforts to build boats. there are two shown, the first one went through several modifications to improve stability, the Vee bottom became flat and I chopped one end and installed a transom so length reduced from 12 ft 3.7m to 10.5 ft 3.2m, beam at gunnels stayed unchanged at 26 in 0.66m; it is scheduled for ritual demolition. The seat back is thin ply and bends to fit my back. Weight came in at 19 lb 8.6 kg. The second one is much more stable although it is only 9.3 ft 2.8m long, beam at gunnels 26 in 0.66m, I plan to increase its bottom width which is 18 in 0.46m by 10%. It was a bit heavier at 22 lb 10 kg even without a seat, due to thicker (laminated) gunnels which allowed me to eliminate thwarts; it is designed so several such boats can be nested for transportation. Those gunnels are stiff enough to support my entire weight 190 lb 86 kg with hardly any flexing. Each boat came out of a single ply sheet 4 x 8 ft 1.22 x 2.44m. Thanks for your interest.

[Raggi_Thor]

Thanks, they look good!

[ancient kayaker]

This thread is a bit quiet, has everyone gone away or is nothing happening due to the season? I gave up my efforts to write my own software when I downloaded a copy of DelftShip which is what Freeship is calling itself these days. I had a bit of fun mastering it over the winter. It does a good job although it is a little strange, more like stretching a rubber sheet than defining offsets to get the hull you want. I have a couiple of designs waiting for warmer weather. The first will probably be a 12 ft 3.66 m canoe that I hope will be more stable than my previous attempts and the second one will likely be a Wee Lassie (10.5 ft 3.2 m), which I have translated from the lapstrake into a five-plank-a-side ply hull, staying true (I hope) to the original lines. Both should be under 20 lb 9 kg and naturally, they'll both be dirt cheap. Any more news folks?

DelftShip is at http://www.delftship.net/

Wee lassie: http://www.geocities.com/ancientkayaker/WeeLassie/WeeLassie.jpg

[inventing_man]

Sure! 'I'll chum in here . A 100 dollar boat challenge? Guys , this is going to sound absolutely nuts ..but it worked and worked surprisingly well . I may have had 25 dollars in it .. And I built it 12 years or so ago. It consisted of 1 used tractor inter tube. A piece of used 3/4 inch fir ply wood cut into a tear drop about 6-7 feel long and 20 inches wide at the widest point. 4 small ratchet straps , and some bungee cords. One electric drill. Broom stick. A used speedo cable from a motorcycle...and 1 12 volt plug in fan prop. (truckers dash fan)
I cut small slots in the plywood bow and stern and on each side in the middle for the ratchet straps. I stretched the inter tube with one ratchet strap around the tube and through a slot in the ply on one end and ratcheted the other strap until the tube was to the full length of the plywood . Then I used the side ratchet straps to pull the sides . This was a fairly large tube so stretching was minimal . I used the bungees between the straps around the inter tube drilling holes in the plywood ( really didn't' need this ) I inflated the inter tube and released a bit of tension on the straps as it inflated so all would be equal . I attached the speedo cable to the broom stick and slid it under a ratchet strap on the aft end then attached the fan blade using the molded in set collar the prop had ,and chucked the other end in the drill and duct taped it on the handle. A tiller pole
I cut one other piece of ply for a seat across the top of the inter tube and charged all the battery packs I had. Grabbed the PFD, a paddle and the rod then headed to the lake . This little boat did just fine. It felt stable I stood up in it with no problem , it turned , I could go reverse . The battery lasted a long time AND I caught fish! Sorry no pics But I just may try it again !

[ancient kayaker]

Things are kind of quiet on this thread but here is another $100 boat. this 12 foot canoe took about 40 hours for hull construction and 60 hours total including finishing, metalwork and the seat. Material cost of $100 included a sheet of 3 mm marine ply, 1/4 sheet of marine 4 mm ply and about 6 board feet of cedar plus a little pine. Biggest cost item was epoxy at $30.

[Raggi_Thor]

NICE! That's value for money. It looks like a real and useful boat.

[NEWENGLAND]

If you put the Dollar Sign wher it Belongs as in $100. You can send me a Certified Bank Cheque or US Postal Money order or a couple of Krugerands.

$100 bucks wont even fill the fuel tank on my pickup truck right now.

You better make your boat Wind Powered!

Here is the winning Idea.
When I was a kid we riped the top off a 275 Gal oil tank that we found. dragged it down to the river and

Poof! We had a boat that was good for one run down the classs III Rapids.

There ya Go!


Capt Walt

http://home.maine.rr.com/newengland/index.html/

http://blog.makezine.com/lrg_oil_tank_boat.jpg

[ancient kayaker]

Now that's what I call a lot of boat for the money! My $100 is already earmarked for the next boat, sorry!

I haven't modified the boat to use wind-power yet so it is still driven by good old-fashioned paddle-power, I expect it to do about 8km to the jam sandwich. However, I have plans for wind power. It'll be like a wedding, something old (lateen sail), something new (Bruce foils), something borrowed (the paddle) and something blue (er... I'll have to repaint the boat). The lateen sail is a lifting sail which should enhance the lifting effect of the Bruce foil; I have tried something like it before using a sail that folds kind of like an umbrella and it worked well on an even smaller boat with only 12 sq ft of sail area. This time I plan to have 25 sq ft. If that isn't exciting enough I have enough aluminum tubing for 50 sq ft ...

Speaking of excitement, how many of you survived the class III rapids run in the recycled oil tank? Reminds me of the Niagara Falls museum, but the survival rate there is discouraging ...

[Petros]

I built the boat below for about $35, all wood was salvaged from construction sites and trash. I am building a new spinnaker out of plastic table cloths I got from trash after a wedding. It uses a Tyvek sail, it is 14 ft LOA x 4'8" beam, w/ 16' laminated wood mast. It is skin-on-frame, like a sea kayak, with a heavy plastic skin (also from trash).
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj48/petros58/Sailboatfirstlaunch.jpg

[ancient kayaker]

Looks great, must be light too. I have had success using lightweight tarp material which I can sew on my wife's sewing machine when she isn't looking. I've heard of Tyvek but don't know anything about it. How did you fabricate the mast; it's something I want to try?

[Petros]

I think the whole thing weighs about 150 lbs or so (I have not weight it yet). Tyvek is a brand name for a house wrap material (there are other brands too), it is a semipermeable membrane made of some kind of fibrous plastic with polyester filament reinforcement. I bought a 9' wide x 100 foot roll of it for $5 at a garage sale. It can be sewn but I used two sided duct tape on lapped seams, and then double sealed the seams on top with Tyvek tape.

The mast was pretty easy, I started with a single 1x12 VG fir plank 16 ft long I savaged from an old church building remodel. I cut two 4 in strips and routed a small half round groove along the back edges, I also routed radius in the outside corners to round it off. I then cut a 1/4 x 3 inch strip and glued it in between the two grooved halfs. So I end up with a rounded off rectangular mast about 1.75 in thick by 4 in deep, with a 1/4 in slot up the back that the sail slides up inside. the LE of the sail has a 3/8 rope in it that slides up the routed grooves, giving the sail a smooth and continuous attachment to the trailing edge of the mast.

[DanishBagger]

If you put the Dollar Sign wher it Belongs as in $100. You can send me a Certified Bank Cheque or US Postal Money order or a couple of Krugerands.

Oh, ha ha, that's rich coming from someone who types his nick with all capitals and begins every other word with a capital as well :rolleyes:


Here is the winning Idea.
When I was a kid we riped the top off a 275 Gal oil tank that we found. dragged it down to the river and

Poof! We had a boat that was good for one run down the classs III Rapids.

There ya Go!

Good solution. Unfortunately, 100 dollars were a hell of a lot more worth back then.




I built the boat below for about $35, all wood was salvaged from construction sites and trash. I am building a new spinnaker out of plastic table cloths I got from trash after a wedding. It uses a Tyvek sail, it is 14 ft LOA x 4'8" beam, w/ 16' laminated wood mast. It is skin-on-frame, like a sea kayak, with a heavy plastic skin (also from trash).
http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj48/petros58/Sailboatfirstlaunch.jpg

Man, I like that one! It looks very much like those Greenlandic kayaks. Only, of course, with a rig and everything.
At 35 bucks, methinks I should have set 50 bucks as the top dollar to be used.

[ancient kayaker]

Just an afterthought, the boat (Dora) in my April 20 posting has turned out to be a great boat on the water. Knocked 15 minutes off my previous 105 minute around-the-pond record. So good that it's the only one of my canoes and kayaks that I use now. She runs dead straight, less than 20 lb so I can tuck her under my arm across the 200 yds wide beach. Kind of hard work to turn though, almost zero rocker, lots of sharp edged chines a keel and a skeg to boot; I overdid the directionality.

I got a lot of help from the forum on the design of that rather pretty seat, which is actually intended for a later boat, a Wee Lassie, scheduled for Fall (don't think there's any Oz's on this thread but that's Spring, fellas, if your listening). * Ooops, they're in there ...

I have another similar but smaller canoe just finishing up, will post pics when done. Should come in around $55 ...

[Petros]

Using traditional skin-on-frame construction you can build a much nicer sea kayak than using plywood. The sea kayak below I built for my wife for about $60. The stringers and gunwales are red cedar (all salvaged) and it uses Alaskan yellow cedar for the steam bent ribs (only because red cedar does not steam bend very well). I have also used white oak for steam bending, salvaged from oak floor boards.

The most expensive part was the fabric, 9 oz nylon from George Dyson and Company in Bellingham WA. The fabric was about $40. The frame is held together with all wood pegs and lashing done with polyester lacing cord. It is strong, fast to do, will not corrode and light, and it uses no metal fasteners at all. Nylon btw is not good for lashing boat frames because it relaxes when wet and the knots fall out. The skin, after sewing on by hand, is sealed with polyurethane floor finish (I added pigment), tough and cheap. But any oil based paint will work, more durable than tar too (and not as smelly). I can get leftover paint and finish for free or next to free at a local county run paint recycling program.

The kayak is 15' 8" long, 22 inch beam and weighs about 19 lbs. It is tough, light and paddles nicely. My wife loves it better than any factory "hard shell" kayaks (that weigh 60-70 pounds!).

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj48/petros58/DonisKayak.jpg

below is another picture of my sailboat so you can see how the frame is built (without the floor boards). I eventually intend to replace the plastic skin with 12 oz nylon and polyurethane sealant like the sea kayaks, this would add about $40-50 to my $35 budget, still well under $100. But it will make a very tough and durable skin (unlike the plastic which I am always patching with packing tape). The skin is held in by the coaming, so very little hand sewing is required with this design. BTW, my sail boat uses a dagger board that goes through a dagger board box behind the mast step.


http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj48/petros58/50boatconstruction023.jpg